the staith house, which I gave in the januar four stars, started a monthly tasting evening in connection with bon coeur fine wines. I was invited because the chief of former master chef finalist john calton and his business partner james laffan wanted to show their skills. it was a three-hour, seven-course, six-way-gourmet evening to remember, with delicate crab in blood orange mayonnaise and fennel, a fish course of skate and sole, steamed in fish stocks on a feather bed of saphir, kaper and sprouting brokkoli, and an incredible plate of lamb – shouldered, too many
